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The answer

Why is my face always red?

Persistent facial redness is usually one of three things, and they want opposite treatment. Skin that has been over-washed, over-exfoliated or over-acided is irritated: its barrier is damaged, and it gets better by removing steps and repairing. Skin that flushes at heat, alcohol, spice and stress, and has settled into permanent redness across the nose and cheeks -- often with small bumps -- is closer to rosacea, and that gets better with a specific ingredient rather than with a gentler routine alone. And redness that is really a rash, symmetrical and itchy, is a reaction to something you are applying. The first move for all three is the same: stop everything active for a fortnight and see which one you have.

What answers it

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The fortnight that tells you which one it is

Stop every acid, retinoid, scrub, brush and clay mask. Cleanse once a day with something gentle, moisturise, wear sunscreen, and change nothing else for two weeks. If the redness settles, it was irritation and the routine was the cause. If it does not move, it is not something you did, and treating it as if it were -- by being even gentler -- will not help either. This costs nothing and is the only reliable way to tell the two apart.

Triggers are worth writing down

For flushing redness the pattern is usually specific and personal: red wine but not white, hot drinks rather than spicy food, the gym, a hot shower, stress. People routinely name the wrong culprit from memory and cut something that was never involved. A week of notes beats a year of guessing, and it asks nothing of you but a notebook.

Green corrector, sparingly

Green sits opposite red on the colour wheel, so a thin green layer under foundation genuinely neutralises it. The mistake is quantity -- a full green base under a full foundation reads grey in daylight. A little, only where the red actually is, then normal coverage over the top.

Questions

Is redness always rosacea?
No, and assuming it is leads people to treat a damaged barrier with something aimed at inflammation instead of just stopping the thing that damaged it. Rosacea tends to flush in episodes, settle around the central face, and often bring small bumps and visible vessels. Irritation tends to follow a change you made.
Should I use a hot or cold flannel?
Neither hot. Heat dilates the vessels that are the problem, so hot water, hot rooms and long hot showers all worsen a flushed face. Lukewarm to wash, cool if anything to settle it.
Does niacinamide help redness?
Modestly and gently, by supporting the barrier rather than by acting on the vessels. It is a reasonable everyday step, though on settled central redness with bumps azelaic acid is doing considerably more work.
When should I see a doctor?
If the redness comes with eye irritation, if bumps and pustules are spreading, or if two months of the above changes nothing. Rosacea has prescription treatments that outperform anything on a shelf, and the earlier it is treated the less the vessels settle in permanently.

Your turn

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